Restricted Compound
Restricted chemical compounds form when certain azo dyes undergo a specific molecular breakdown during wear or processing. The presence of cleavable aromatic amines indicates that the dye used on the fabric is potentially carcinogenic and fails global safety standards. Most testing protocols target a specific list of twenty-two to twenty-four regulated amines.
Laboratory Analysis
Detection methods utilize a reduction process to break the nitrogen bonds in the azo dye and release the constituent parts. A lab identifies cleavable aromatic amines using gas chromatography combined with mass spectrometry to find the precise molecular weight of each fragment. This step confirms whether the original colorant belongs to the prohibited category.
Safety Threshold
Compliance limits are set at thirty milligrams per kilogram across most international jurisdictions. If the concentration of cleavable aromatic amines exceeds this value, the product cannot be legally sold in the European Union or North America. Manufacturers must ensure that every dye lot comes with a certificate of conformity from the chemical supplier.
Sourcing Risk
Fibre type influences the likelihood of finding these substances in a finished garment. Natural fibres like cotton and wool are frequently dyed with azo compounds that might release cleavable aromatic amines if the mill does not verify the dye chemistry. Silk and leather also require careful screening because the heavy dye loads used for deep colors increase the risk of contamination.
Brands often perform spot checks on bulk production to verify the accuracy of the mill’s chemical declarations.
