Proteomic Identification Basics for Animal Fiber Blends
Proteomic mass spectrometry isolates species-specific keratin peptides to quantify animal fiber blend ratios precisely despite chemical or physical scale damage.
Descaled Wool
Fibre Modification
Keratin fibres that have undergone surface modification exhibit reduced friction and increased resistance to shrinkage during wet laundering. Processing to produce descaled wool removes or masks the overlapping cuticle scales that cover the surface of natural wool. This alterative process is required to make wool garments machine-washable without risking severe felting.
The resulting fibres display a smoother profile, which also increases the absorption of dyes during the finishing stage.
Chemical Treatment
Industrial finishing mills achieve this surface smoothing by using chlorine-based oxidizing agents or enzymatic hydrolysis. The Hercosett process uses a polyamide-epichlorohydrin resin to coat the scales after a mild chlorine treatment. This resin coating prevents the unidirectional friction effect that drives the felting of untreated wool fibres.
Performance Checkpoint
Shrinkage testing in standardized commercial laundry cycles determines whether the batch meets the requirements for machine washability. Garments made from descaled wool must show less than three percent dimensional change after multiple wash cycles. Friction measurement confirms the reduction in the directional friction coefficient of the treated fibres.
Wet Processing
Luster and softness are altered by scale removal. However, the treatment reduces the natural elasticity of the yarn. Tensile strength must be monitored to ensure the fibres remain durable.