Raw Cashmere Classing and Guard Hair Percentage Estimation
Raw cashmere value hinges on clean down yield and optical verification of residual coarse hair content below zero point five percent by mass.
Intermediate Kemp Hair
Fiber Classification
Coarse animal fibers found in sheep fleeces are classified according to their structure, diameter, and medullation characteristics. An intermediate kemp hair is a specialty fiber that exhibits a partial or discontinuous medulla, positioned between normal wool fibers and fully medullated kemp. These fibers are typically thicker than surrounding wool and lack the elasticity of the true textile wool.
Mills monitor their presence in fleece lots because they affect the processing and aesthetic qualities of the yarn.
Dye Uptake
Internal air cavities within medullated fibers scatter light, altering the visual appearance of dyed yarns. When an intermediate kemp hair is dyed, it appears lighter in shade than the non-medullated fibers in the same yarn, creating an uneven, speckled color effect. This happens because the air filled medulla reflects light rather than allowing it to pass through the dyed fiber, making the fiber look chalky.
Dye houses must avoid using wool lots with high concentrations of these fibers for deep, solid colors.
Yarn Processing
Spinnability is compromised when coarse, stiff fibers are mixed with fine apparel wool. The intermediate kemp hair possesses high bending stiffness due to its large diameter, making it difficult to twist into the yarn structure. These fibers tend to migrate to the outside of the yarn, where they protrude as hairiness that reduces yarn strength and increases the risk of pilling.
To minimize these issues, wool processors use mechanical sorting to remove the stiffest fibers before carding.
Fabric Feel
Garment comfort is reduced when these stiff fibers are left in the wool blend. They poke the skin of the wearer, causing discomfort and itching.