Rotary Screen against Digital Print When Repeat Orders Shrink
When repeat print orders fall below 800 metres, digital printing eliminates rotary screen setup fees and waste, cutting landed costs and lead time.
ISO 105-X12 Crocking
Regulatory Specification
A standardized procedure establishes the mechanical friction resistance of colored textile materials under wet or dry conditions to quantify the amount of pigment transferred from a specimen to a rubbing cloth. This method, known as iso 105-x12 crocking, determines the fastness of dyes applied to fibers through a controlled contact cycle. Testing personnel utilize a specialized apparatus equipped with a finger that exerts consistent pressure while oscillating across the fabric surface for ten cycles.
The resulting staining on the test cloth receives a numerical grade based on a greyscale that ranges from one to five, where five represents the highest level of color retention. Laboratories perform this evaluation to confirm that dyes remain stable when subjected to mechanical action during garment usage or cleaning processes. If a fabric fails this evaluation, the manufacturer must adjust the finishing agents or the dye fixation process before bulk production reaches the market.
Compliance with the defined parameters ensures that consumers face minimal risk of color transfer onto skin or adjacent surfaces during garment wear.
Testing Apparatus
The equipment consists of a motor or hand-operated device that applies a downward force to a cylinder tipped with a white cotton square. Operators secure the textile sample on the base of the machine to ensure no slippage occurs during the reciprocating movement of the rubbing head. A standard test requires a vertical load of nine newtons applied through a flat finger of sixteen millimeters in diameter.
Each stroke moves the finger along a path of approximately one hundred millimeters at a constant speed to maintain uniformity across repeated samples. The machine design isolates the effect of physical contact from other environmental variables like sunlight or detergent concentration. Proper alignment of the fabric grain prevents bias in the test results by ensuring the friction path follows the longitudinal or transverse direction as required by internal quality protocols.
Evaluation Methodology
Assessment of the soiled cotton square occurs under a standardized light source that mimics daylight to avoid color perception shifts. Comparison against the grey scale for staining facilitates an objective score that matches the degree of pigment migration visible to the trained eye. Any deviation in light intensity or background color influences the final grade, so technicians calibrate the room environment to prevent shadows or glare on the testing surface.
Individual reports distinguish between results gathered from dry rubbing and those obtained after wetting the fabric with distilled water. Wet testing often yields a lower grade due to the lubricating effect of moisture on dye molecules and fiber surfaces.
Verification Requirement
Mills submit dyed batches to this scrutiny before shipping goods to apparel manufacturers who hold strict requirements for color integrity. Consistent performance in the crocking test verifies that the chemical binding of colorants to the substrate survives the physical demands of conversion into finished clothing. The integrity of the dye application determines the commercial viability of a batch because low grades force entire lots into inventory waste.
Fabric quality remains fixed to the stability of these pigment connections.