Raw Cashmere Classing and Guard Hair Percentage Estimation
Raw cashmere value hinges on clean down yield and optical verification of residual coarse hair content below zero point five percent by mass.
Raw Cashmere Down
Fleece Material
Untreated undercoat fibers collected from specific goat breeds represent the starting material for premium luxury textiles. The raw cashmere down is the fine fleece collected by combing or shearing before it has undergone scouring, dehairing or carding. This material is a dense mixture of fine, insulating down fibers and coarse outer protective hair.
Harvest Processing
Traditional combing during the natural spring shedding season allows for the harvesting of these fine fibers with minimal damage to the animal. The harvested raw cashmere down contains high levels of dirt, sweat, and vegetable matter that can account for up to half of the total fleece weight. In the processing mill, these impurities must be washed out in scouring bowls using mild detergent and warm water.
After drying, the fleece is passed through carding teeth and air chambers to separate the fine down from the coarse guard hairs.
Quality Grading
Fleece evaluations measure the yield and average diameter of the fine fibers in each raw batch. Batches of raw cashmere down with an average diameter below fifteen micrometres and a low proportion of coarse hairs command the highest prices on the global market. These fine batches are reserved for producing ultra-soft, lightweight sweaters.
Verification Control
Commercial buyers perform laboratory analysis on core samples taken from raw bales to verify the clean fiber yield. This testing prevents mills from overpaying for batches with excessive grease or dirt weight, ensuring fair transactions.