Surface Structure
Microscopic patterns formed by the overlapping protein plates on the outer cuticle layer of animal hair are used to characterize natural fibres. The assessment of scale morphology assists in the visual identification of different wool, cashmere and camel hair types. This physical pattern represents the primary method of fibre analysis before molecular methods are applied.
Microscopic Patterning
Cuticle scales differ in their height, spacing and the angle at which they protrude from the hair shaft. Examining this scale morphology under a scanning electron microscope reveals characteristic scale height differences between fine wool and cashmere. This difference is used to quickly scan for obvious contaminants in incoming fiber lots.
Verification Boundary
Chemical and mechanical finishing processes often wear down or alter these delicate surface features. In heavily processed, bleached or de-scaled garments, the scale morphology becomes distorted or completely erased. This loss makes it impossible to distinguish premium cashmere from fine wool using microscopy alone.
Laboratory experts must then rely on mass spectrometry to provide a reliable determination of the fiber origins.
Visual Assessment
Visual analysis yields a high-resolution surface scan showing the shape and condition of the fiber scales. Studying scale morphology remains a useful first screening step, but must be supported by molecular analysis for processed textiles.