Subcontracted Finishing Steps Appearing after the Audit Scope Closes
Subcontracted finishing steps executed outside audited mill boundaries alter fabric fastness, strength, and chemical safety without triggering primary quality controls.
Crock Fastness Drop
Quality Variation
Color transfer from the surface of a textile to another material occurs when the dye particles are not sufficiently fixed or bonded. A crock fastness drop refers to the decline in the ability of a fabric to resist staining during dry or wet rubbing tests. This phenomenon is frequently observed in dark shades where the saturation of dye on the fibre surface is high.
Chemical Interference
Finishing agents such as softeners or water repellents can migrate to the surface and carry dye molecules with them. When a crock fastness drop happens after the application of a silicone softener, it usually indicates that the chemical has lubricated the dye particles and made them easier to dislodge. Careful selection of non-ionic or cationic additives helps to maintain the original fastness levels of the dyed lot.
Testing Procedure
Standardized evaluation involves the use of a crockmeter that moves a white cotton cloth across the test specimen under a fixed load. If the laboratory report shows a crock fastness drop of one or more grades on the grey scale, the batch may fail to meet the brand specification. Wet crocking is generally more severe than dry crocking because moisture aids the transfer of loose pigments and increases the friction between the surfaces.
Market Consequence
Fabrics that fail rubbing tests pose a risk of staining light colored upholstery or undergarments during consumer use. Remediation often involves a thorough re-washing or stripping of problematic surface finishes to restore the required fastness. Consistent monitoring at the dyehouse level prevents these issues from reaching the garment factory.