Structural Deviation
Dead, non-medullated hair remnants found within coarse animal fleece define kemp fibre. These brittle, opaque inclusions lack a cortex structure and cannot absorb dye during standard bath processing. Mills identify them as undesirable contaminants because the material possesses limited tensile strength and resists natural colour uptake compared to true animal hair.
Quality control protocols track these inclusions to determine the processing grade of a raw fleece lot.
Processing Impact
Heavy presence of these fibres prevents uniform yarn appearance in luxury wool production. Spinners classify the batch as lower utility when this material exceeds a set percentage of the total weight. Mechanical carding processes cannot fully remove every fragment because the rigidity of the inclusion mimics the surrounding fibre geometry.
Finished fabric surfaces often show these fibres as light, distinct spots that refuse to take up pigment during immersion dyeing stages.
Verification Protocol
Laboratories perform microscopic analysis on sampled clippings to quantify the specific ratio of medullated to non-medullated hair. Technicians use a light microscope to detect the hollow core which distinguishes this matter from sound, protein-rich animal wool. Standardized sampling methods ensure that the observed count represents the broader bale or lot accurately.
Electronic scanning devices measure the diameter of individual hair segments to isolate these opaque inclusions from healthy fibre.
Economic Consequence
Market pricing adjusts downward when raw fleece lots contain high levels of these brittle hairs. Buyers demand lower premiums because the material causes inconsistent visual outcomes in high-end apparel manufacturing. Producers mitigate the loss by redirecting affected batches into heavy carpet construction or insulation padding where aesthetic uniformity matters less.
Excess kemp fibre limits the potential for fine-count spinning and forces mills to dedicate extra resources to specialized finishing treatments.