Protein Group
Non-keratose matrix components form a network that surrounds the microfibrils in the cortex of wool fibers. These molecules, known as keratin associated proteins, are high in sulfur or glycine and tyrosine content. They are essential for the structural integrity of the fiber and vary widely among different breeds of sheep.
Fiber Structure
The distribution of these proteins determines the physical arrangement and shape of the hair shaft. High sulfur proteins provide cross-links that stabilize the fiber matrix and resist chemical damage. This structure is formed during the follicle development stage of the wool growth cycle.
Mechanical Property
Elasticity and strength of wool fibers depend heavily on the density of the disulfide bonds in this matrix. When fibers are subjected to wet finishing, these chemical links can be modified to alter the fabric hand. This chemical response is exploited during decatizing and other set-release finishing processes.
Analysis Focus
Laboratory testing identifies these specific protein signatures to distinguish between cashmere and fine wool fibers. Mass spectrometry allows researchers to map the protein variations and confirm the genetic origin of the material. This analysis helps prevent the mislabeling of luxury animal fibers in the global apparel supply chain.
It provides a highly reliable method that remains accurate even after the wool has undergone scouring, bleaching and dyeing processes.
