Resin Deposition
Chemical modification relies on applying a synthetic polymer to animal hair scales in aqueous media to prevent felting shrinkage during laundering. The hercosett process coats wool fibers with a reactive polyamide-polyamine resin after oxidative pretreatment with chlorine or peracetic acid. Monomers cross-link directly on the epicuticle to form a durable polymer film that masks serrations and eliminates directional friction effect.
Commercial finishing plants monitor liquor uptake and curing temperature to maintain wash permanence without stiffening the yarn handle.
Scale Masking
Frictional differential between movement toward the root and tip drives fiber migration and entanglement in aqueous agitation. Treating tops with a water-soluble polymer fills microscopic gaps on the keratin surface and equalizes coefficients. Treated stock withstands repeated machine washing cycles without felting or dimensional loss.
Garment manufacturers rely on this permanent anti-felting finish for knitwear that requires machine washability certification.
Resin Curing
Cross-linking efficiency depends strictly on pH control and thermal fixation following polymer padding. Excess catalyst creates brittle handle while insufficient heat yields inadequate wash fastness during commercial laundering. Industrial ranges operate at specific temperatures to complete polymerization without damaging wool tensile strength.
Automated padding systems regulate wet pick-up percentages to prevent uneven deposition along the sliver length.
Shrinkage Control
Dimensional stability is verified through standardized laundering tests that measure area shrinkage after multiple domestic wash cycles. Maximum dimensional tolerance limits govern contract supply agreements for uniform and luxury knitwear markets. Wool treated through resin application achieves dimensional stability ratings acceptable for high-frequency laundering specifications.
Laboratory testing confirms that polymer encasement prevents felting shrinkage through successive washing and drying procedures.