Subcontracted Finishing Steps Appearing after the Audit Scope Closes
Subcontracted finishing steps executed outside audited mill boundaries alter fabric fastness, strength, and chemical safety without triggering primary quality controls.
Usable Roll Width Reduction
Material Loss
Narrowing of the effective fabric area that can be utilized for cutting garment panels occurs when selvages or edges are damaged or distorted. This condition, known as usable roll width reduction, forces the factory to adjust its cutting markers to a narrower width than originally planned. It leads to increased fabric waste and reduces the efficiency of the cutting process.
Mills are expected to compensate buyers when the usable width falls below specified limits.
Physical Cause
The reduction often results from excessive tension during stentering, fabric shrinkage, or chemical over-processing that damages the edges. Pin marks from the tenter frame can render the selvages unusable. If the fabric curls or bows, the edges cannot be laid flat.
Operational Impact
When the usable width decreases, the number of garment pieces that can fit across the fabric width is reduced. This requires more fabric yardage to complete the same order, driving up raw material costs. It can disrupt production schedules when fabric runs short.
Mitigation Method
Textile finishing plants must control tension carefully and ensure the tenter pins grip the fabric evenly. Garment factories should inspect roll widths before starting the cutting layout to adjust markers beforehand. Open communication between mill and factory prevents surprises.