Surface Inspection
Analytical techniques used to determine if the natural cuticle layers of sheep wool have been chemically or enzymatically removed. De-scaled wool detection is a necessary step in verifying the authenticity of specialty fibers such as cashmere when they are blended with treated sheep wool. Removal of the scales makes sheep wool smoother and more difficult to distinguish from rarer animal hairs.
Microscopic Verification
Scanning electron microscopy provides the resolution necessary to see the smooth surface of a fiber that has undergone subtractive processing. During de-scaled wool detection, the absence of clear scale edges indicates that the fiber has been treated with chlorine or other oxidative agents. This treatment is often used to create machine-washable or shrink-resistant wool products.
Dyeing Behavior
Chemical changes in the fiber surface alter the rate at which dyes are absorbed. Treated fibers often take up color more rapidly and at lower temperatures than untreated ones, leading to potential shade variation in a finished garment. This property allows laboratory staff to suspect the presence of modified wool even before microscopic confirmation.
Market Protection
Fraudulent labeling often involves using treated wool to mimic the handle of cashmere or mohair. Reliable de-scaled wool detection ensures that a buyer receives the fiber composition specified in the contract.
