Greige Preparation Parameters for Heavy Woven Cotton Twill
Preparation of heavy cotton twill requires 85-degree flame singeing, dual-dip enzymatic desizing, open-width alkaline scouring, and 28 Baumé mercerization.
ISO 13934-1 Tensile Retention
Strength Assessment
Material durability relies on a fabric’s ability to resist mechanical failure under tension. ISO 13934-1 tensile retention is a measure of the percentage of breaking strength a fabric maintains after being subjected to chemical, mechanical, or environmental exposure. It is determined by comparing the maximum force required to rupture a treated specimen against the force needed for an untreated control specimen.
This assessment is essential for evaluating the damaging effects of bleaching or enzyme treatments.
Testing Execution
The strip method specified in the standard involves preparing rectangular fabric specimens of a precise width and length. These specimens are clamped in the jaws of a tensile tester and pulled at a constant rate of extension until they break. The test is repeated for both the warp and weft directions of the fabric to capture the directional strength profiles.
To ensure accuracy, the specimens must be preconditioned in a standard atmosphere of twenty degrees Celsius and sixty-five percent relative humidity before testing.
Damage Calculation
Calculated from the break data, the retention percentage is derived by dividing the average breaking force of the treated samples by that of the untreated ones and multiplying by one hundred. A low percentage indicates significant fiber degradation from the treatment.
Industrial Threshold
Brands specify minimum retention thresholds for heavy washing processes, such as denim bleaching or enzyme stone-washing. If a fabric falls below the specified percentage, the production process must be adjusted to reduce chemical concentration or treatment time.