Woven Fabric Weight Tolerances and Linear Metre Yield Calculations
Reconcile woven fabric purchases by calculating linear yield from conditioned mass and usable cuttable width under ISO 3801 and ISO 139 parameters.
Selvage Deduction
Width Deduction
Measurement standards subtract the unusable finished edges of a fabric roll to determine the net width available for garment cutting. Garment manufacturers apply selvage deduction to ensure that the pins or needle holes from the tenter frame do not appear in the finished garments. This practice establishes the boundary of the usable width, which is the only area pattern makers can use.
It applies to woven and knitted fabrics processed on pin frames, but is not used for tubular knits.
Selvage Function
The selvage is the reinforced edge of the fabric that prevents fraying during weaving and holding the fabric in the tenter. This border often has a different thickness, density, or elasticity than the rest of the fabric. It is unsuitable for inclusion in garments because it causes seam puckering.
This necessitates its exclusion.
Calculation Impact
A roll with a nominal width of one hundred and fifty centimetres may only have a usable width of one hundred and forty-eight centimetres after deduction. Pattern markers must be scaled to the usable width rather than the total width to avoid printing defects. This prevents ruined garment panels.
Supplier Compliance
Textile mills must declare both the total and usable width of each roll to prevent disputes with buyers. If the selvages are exceptionally wide or damaged, the buyer can demand a discount. Standardizing this deduction keeps both parties aligned on the fabric’s value.