Textile Defect
Non-spinning fibers left in processed cashmere down reduce the commercial value and soft handle of the raw material. This unwanted presence is called guard hair contamination, consisting of coarse, thick outer hairs that escaped the mechanical dehairing process. Fabric made from contaminated batches exhibits a prickly feel.
Processing Risk
Coarse hairs do not absorb dyes in the same manner as fine cashmere undercoat fibers. This difference creates uneven color distribution or visible specks on the surface of dyed fabrics. Furthermore, these stiff fibers do not bend during spinning, causing them to protrude from the yarn body and weaken the structure.
Measuring Technique
Microscopic evaluation of sample slides determines the level of contamination. Technicians count the number of fibers with diameters greater than thirty micrometers per gram of sample. Modern laboratories use automated image analyzers to speed up this inspection process.
Purchasing Clause
Commercial contracts for refined cashmere specify strict maximum limits for guard hair contamination to avoid dispute. If the limit is exceeded, the buyer can demand financial compensation or reject the consignment. For luxury applications, a contamination level below zero point five percent is often required to ensure acceptable fabric quality.
To prevent disputes, samples are drawn from multiple parts of the shipment and sealed in airtight containers for independent verification.
