Single Jersey Curling and the Finishing Sold as a Fix
Single jersey curl stems from unbalanced yarn torque and asymmetrical loop tension; durable flat performance demands structural yarn balancing rather than temporary resin finishes.
Selvage Rolling
Edge Distortion
Fabric defects manifest as the curling of the raw borders of knitted fabrics toward either the face or back. This behavior, known as selvage rolling, occurs because of unbalanced internal stresses in single-knit constructions like jerseys or loops. It makes the fabric difficult to lay flat, print, or cut in garment factories.
Yarn Tension
Unbalanced yarn torque and stitch structure create a natural tendency for the loops at the fabric edges to curl. In selvage rolling, this curl is driven by the relaxation of the yarn twist and the unequal tension between the face and back loops of the knit. It is particularly severe in lightweight, highly twisted cotton knits.
Production Issues
Cutting and sewing operations are disrupted when fabric edges are curled and cannot be fed smoothly through automatic machinery. To overcome selvage rolling, mills often apply starch or resin to the edges of the roll during stenter processing, a technique called edge gumming. This stiffens the selvage so it stays flat during lay-planning and cutting.
If the curl is not controlled, the garment panels can be cut unevenly, leading to twisted seams and misaligned fits.
Finishing Solutions
Tension control during stenting and calendering is crucial to minimize the curling of fabric edges. Mills must optimize the temperature and moisture levels to relax the yarn torque before the fabric is wound onto rolls. This thermal setting helps to stabilize the knit structure and reduces the severity of the curl.