Determining Raw Cashmere Micron Profiles and Dehairing Yields
Determining raw cashmere value requires combined OFDA micron profiling and oven-dry yield mass balance testing to calculate true clean dehaired cost.
Coarse Fibre Count
Fibre Classification
Quantitative laboratory analysis determines the presence of wool hairs exceeding thirty microns in diameter within a processed sliver or top sample to ensure compliance with specific quality grades. Such coarse fibre count represents the frequency of kemp or medullated hairs that exceed established thresholds for standard yarn spinning. Technicians count these outliers through microscopic examination of thin cross sections or longitudinal projections of the material.
A calibrated graticule overlays the sample view to isolate individual strands against defined measurement ranges. Each identified instance of oversize hair adds to the numerical tally per gram of raw material tested. The resulting value dictates processing capability for worsted or woollen machinery.
Mills reject batches that show excessive counts because large hairs break during spinning or protrude from finished fabric surfaces. Spinning frames require uniform diameter profiles to maintain tension and avoid breakage during high speed operation. Manufacturers calibrate machines to handle specific micron distributions rather than inconsistent stock.
Measurement Protocol
Rigorous sampling procedures govern the collection of specimens before any counting commences in the lab. Staff extract random sections from multiple bales to overcome natural variation within the clip. Individual hairs undergo immersion in a transparent liquid to facilitate clear observation under magnification.
The light source focuses directly through the mount to highlight boundary edges of the specimen. Analysts move the slide systematically to prevent double counting of the same material. High magnification equipment identifies internal medullation patterns alongside outer diameter constraints.
This process concludes when the total sample weight achieves the required statistical significance for the lot. Precision remains constant across different laboratories because identical standards define the boundaries of what constitutes a coarse intrusion.
Production Impact
Excess quantities of heavy hairs force adjustments in the drawing process to prevent damage to expensive pins or combs. Machines pull at specific speeds based on average fibre diameter and tensile strength metrics. High concentrations of thicker strands shift the mechanical load during drafting phases and force immediate intervention by mill operators.
Yarn regularity suffers when coarse hairs pull through the fibre matrix during rotation. Final garment textures exhibit harshness or surface pills if the material undergoes conversion without adequate sorting. Customers demand soft hand feel for apparel which relies upon the strict exclusion of hair exceeding thirty microns.
Fabric inspection flags these occurrences as defects that lower the commercial grade of the bolt.
Quality Threshold
Commercial contracts specify maximum allowable counts for each category of wool product destined for retail sale. Suppliers provide verification documents confirming that the batch stays within agreed limits for thickness distribution. Disputes arise when incoming goods deviate from the provided analysis but standard arbitration procedures rely upon the same microscopic examination of the physical sample to reach a settlement.
Buyers hold suppliers accountable for inconsistent sorting practices that cause downstream output failures. A low numerical value indicates uniform stock that processes efficiently without requiring excessive carding. Consistent testing confirms the effectiveness of the initial scouring and combing steps in the mill.
Results from these tests stand as the final evidence of quality for the lot.