Spirality Testing
Standardized measurement procedures determine the twist or torque in garments and fabrics after laundering. The protocols defined in ISO 16322 describe how to measure the rotation of side seams or fabric grain lines in both knitted and woven products. This standard is critical for preventing the skewing of t-shirts and trousers.
Seam Deviation
Garment panels are marked and laundered before the distance between the twisted seam and its original position is measured. In ISO 16322, the displacement is calculated as a percentage of the garment width or seam length. This calculation shows how much the fabric loops have shifted or relaxed during the wash cycle.
Fabric Construction
Yarn twist and knitting tensions are the primary drivers of fabric spirality in finished single-jersey garments. By using ISO 16322, mills can evaluate whether the yarn torque was balanced during spinning or knitting before making large shipments of fabric. The method provides three different test protocols to accommodate different garment types and fabric configurations.
It serves as a diagnostic tool for quality control managers to pinpoint whether the spirality originates from the yarn twist or from improper fabric finishing.
Rejection Thresholds
Commercial specifications set maximum spirality limits of three to five percent to avoid customer returns. Non-compliance with ISO 16322 can result in whole batches of garments being rejected, as twisted seams make clothes uncomfortable and visually unappealing. This test represents the industry benchmark for garment shape retention.
