Determining Raw Cashmere Micron Profiles and Dehairing Yields
Determining raw cashmere value requires combined OFDA micron profiling and oven-dry yield mass balance testing to calculate true clean dehaired cost.
Micron Drift
Diameter Variation
A progressive shift in the average fiber diameter of a wool lot occurs during subsequent processing stages from raw fleece to spun yarn. This micron drift describes the difference in fiber fineness measurements between the initial purchase and the combed top. The variation usually arises because coarser fibers migrate differently during carding and combing.
Commercial Impact
Purchasing premium fine wool that drifts to a coarser grade during processing lowers the commercial value of the spun yarn. The spun yarn may feel scratchier against the skin, which makes it unsuitable for high-end knitwear applications. Spinning mills face financial losses when they cannot deliver the specified yarn count and quality.
Testing Challenge
Laboratory testing must utilize representative samples to account for the natural variation of fiber diameters within a single bale. Automated testing instruments like lasers provide rapid analysis, but results can vary if the samples are not properly conditioned first. Handlers and buyers must agree on standardized testing protocols to prevent disagreements over fiber specifications.
Prevention Measure
Mills can minimize the drift by implementing stricter sorting protocols for incoming raw fleeces before they are processed. Running frequent laboratory tests at intermediate stages like carding allows technicians to adjust processing settings to maintain consistency. Furthermore, blending lots with complementary micron profiles helps stabilize the average fiber diameter of the final yarn, ensuring that the finished garments meet the tactile expectations of the consumer.