Tension Release
Longitudinal shrinkage occurs when the tension applied to the vertical yarns during weaving is released after the fabric is removed from the loom. This process, known as warp relaxation, causes the fabric to shorten in length as the yarns return to a lower energy state. It is a natural response of the fibres to the stresses of the industrial weaving process.
Fabric Geometry
Water and heat accelerate this movement by lubricating the fibres and allowing them to slide past one another. As the warp yarns shorten, the crimp of the weft yarns increases. This changes the hand feel and the appearance of the cloth.
Garment Sizing
Pattern makers must account for warp relaxation to ensure that the finished garments do not become too short after the first wash. A fabric that has not undergone proper relaxation during finishing will shrink extensively during the laundry cycle. This shrinkage can reach ten percent in some open-weave constructions.
Mills use sanforizing machines to pre-shrink the fabric by compressing the warp yarns mechanically. Quality control technicians perform wash tests to verify that the remaining movement is within the agreed tolerance of two percent. Accurate measurement prevents the production of garments that fail to meet size specifications.
Manufacturing Limit
Tightness of the weave and the type of fibre determine the extent of the potential shortening. Synthetic filaments generally exhibit less warp relaxation than natural cotton or linen yarns. Controlling this variable is a requirement for repeatable garment production.